The season; In the ancient bodegas, something extraordinary is taking shape
SPAIN: In the heart of Andalusia, where the white chalky soil of albariza stretches toward the Atlantic, November arrives with a promise. The scorching Spanish summer has faded, autumn temperatures settle over the vineyards, and in the ancient bodegas of Jerez de la Frontera, something extraordinary is taking shape. This is the month when the new wine season begins, and with it, a celebration that now spans continents.
The Arising of Mosto. The journey begins months earlier with the grape harvest, followed by the crucial fermentation process. But it is November’s cooler climate that works the final magic. As temperatures drop, the new wine completes its initial fermentation and clarifies naturally, settling into itself and beginning to reveal more defined organoleptic characteristics—the aromas, flavors, and textures that will eventually make it unmistakably Sherry.
What emerges in November is not yet Sherry wine. It is mosto, and in the Marco de Jerez, this word carries a meaning unlike anywhere else in the wine world. While in other regions, must simply refers to unfermented grape juice with no alcoholic content, here it represents a young wine with its own distinct identity. This freshly fermented wine reaches an alcohol content between 11 and 12.5 degrees, consumed in its youth from mid-November until spring—a seasonal treasure that marks the beginning of something greater.
The transformation from mosto to Sherry wine involves additional fortification and aging processes. While mosto is consumed young with its slight cloudiness and primary grape aromas, Sherry wines require at least two years of aging in wooden barrels, developing complex flavors and a higher alcohol content of 15 degrees or more through fortification. The young wine represents the raw potential; Sherry is the refined masterpiece.
Cultural Cornerstone. In Jerez, the arrival of mosto is more than an agricultural milestone—it is a cultural celebration rooted in centuries of tradition. There is a popular local saying: “Por San Andrés, el mosto vino es“—by St. Andrew’s Day on November 30th, the must is ready for consumption. This marks the official start of the mosto season, when wine cooperatives produce new batches to sell to Marco de Jerez wineries for the subsequent production of Sherry wines.
Sherry Bars. Traditional restaurants called ventas (simple roadside eateries) and tabancos (Sherry bars) come alive during this season. Some establishments open their doors only during these precious months, creating an atmosphere steeped in wine culture and flamenco.
The pairing of mosto with traditional vineyard cuisine elevates the experience. Ajo campero, considered the star dish of the must route, is a hot salmorejo made with stale bread, tomatoes, peppers, garlic, and olive oil, traditionally prepared in large quantities in a lebrillo (a large round earthenware vessel) and served with raw radish. Berza jerezana, a hearty stew of gypsy origin, combines chickpeas and beans with vegetables like golden thistle, chard, and celery, along with various cuts of pork.
From the city center establishments like Tabanco El Pasaje and El Bujío to countryside ventas such as Mosto El Corregidor Viejo and La Blanca Paloma, visitors can immerse themselves in this feast of flavors and traditions.
From Jerez to the World. Every November, as the new mosto clarifies in Jerez’s bodegas and the young wine begins its transformation, the world celebrates the finished product that this process eventually creates. The cycle is eternal: harvest leads to fermentation, fermentation to mosto, mosto to fortification and aging, and finally to Sherry wine—which travels from the white soil of Andalusia to wine bars in Tokyo, restaurants in São Paulo, cocktail lounges in San Francisco, and traditional pubs in London.
As November temperatures drop in Jerez and the first batches of mosto are ready for tasting, thousands of events worldwide remind us that great wine transcends borders, that tradition can embrace innovation, and that a centuries-old product from a small region of southern Spain has earned its place on the world stage.
The saying goes, “Por San Andrés, el mosto vino es“—and when St. Andrew’s Day arrives on November 30th, the people of Jerez celebrate not just the arrival of their young seasonal wine, but the beginning of another year in Sherry’s ongoing conquest of the world.
Global Phenomenon. While mosto remains a local seasonal specialty, its descendant—Sherry wine—has conquered the world. And every November, that conquest is celebrated in spectacular fashion through Sherry Week, which has evolved from a modest initiative into a global phenomenon.
Launched in 2014 to reintroduce a centuries-old wine to a new generation, Sherry Week 2025 became the most successful celebration in its history. From November 3-9, bars, restaurants, wineries, wine shops, and Sherry lovers united across 27 countries for 4,209 registered events—a staggering 38% increase from the previous year. Since its inception, Sherry Week has celebrated over 30,000 events in 44 countries, cementing its legacy as the greatest Sherry party on Earth.
The celebration is orchestrated under the auspices of D.O. Jerez-Xérès-Sherry, the regulatory council that protects and promotes these unique wines. The iconic Sherry Girl—the celebration’s visual ambassador—appeared on social posts, posters, merchandise, and pairing guides worldwide, while the hashtag #SherryWeek sparked global enthusiasm across social media platforms.
Where It All Began. In the homeland, Spain hosted 814 events nationwide, with the beating heart located in Jerez itself. Streets transformed with colorful banners, and over 150 activities brought the city alive. Standout moments included Sherry & Books at Matria Restaurant—a literary-inspired pairing event—and a Regulatory Council tasting led by President César Saldaña alongside Bodegas Fundador’s Alberto Pizarro. Bodegas Faustino González hosted an exclusive live Japanese fusion cooking session, demonstrating how Sherry’s versatility extends even to contemporary international cuisines.
Barcelona to the islands joined the celebration as Spain launched its first-ever Sherry Cocktail Week, showing that innovation and tradition can coexist beautifully. The popular Sherry Rutas expanded to 15 cities, creating pathways for exploration and discovery throughout the country.
Record-Breaking Love Affair. The UK set a stunning new benchmark with 1,846 events, demonstrating the deep affection British wine lovers have for Spanish Sherry. From London to Edinburgh, from intimate wine bars to grand tastings, the British Isles embraced Sherry with characteristic enthusiasm, proving that this fortified wine has found a permanent home in British culture.
Japan. Japan’s relationship with Sherry grew even stronger with over 230 events across the country. Tokyo created its first-ever Sherry Cocktail Week route, with more than 10 leading bars offering inventive cocktails that showcased the category’s versatility in modern mixology. From north to south, Japan proved that its appreciation for Sherry knows no bounds, bridging Spanish tradition with Japanese precision and innovation.
The Liveliest Edition. In Brazil, 262 events brought Sherry into the spotlight from São Paulo to Rio de Janeiro. Two bartender training sessions gathered 30 top mixologists, while an urban poster campaign spanned over 100 venues, reaching more than one million people.
The Sherry Fair, held in São Paulo, expanded to Rio de Janeiro for the first time under the direction of Fernanda Fonseca, confirming Brazil’s growing passion for this Spanish wine and demonstrating how Sherry resonates with South American wine culture.
Coast-to-Coast. Across the United States, Sherry took center stage in dynamic, city-wide celebrations. Washington, D.C. saw nearly 30 venues join the DC Sherry Week Ruta, hosting tastings, pairings, and cocktails. The highlight was the 5th Annual Sherry Fair at The Square, featuring over 20 sherries, live flamenco performances, a traditional venencia pour demonstration, and jamón-carving classes—bringing the essence of Jerez to the American capital.
In San Diego, over 40 venues participated in the Sherry Week Ruta. San Francisco embraced playful innovation with Sherry Week Bingo, a bar-hopping adventure that turned Sherry exploration into an interactive experience.
Tradition Meets Innovation. Chinese bartenders and wine enthusiasts created 40 special Bamboo cocktails across 40 bars in 16 cities. Some paid tribute to timeless classics, while others pushed boundaries with local ingredients, creating fusion drinks that honored Sherry’s Spanish heritage while embracing Chinese flavors and techniques.
Food with sherry. Oloroso means fragrant: this oxidatively aged sherry has twice the number of phenols (which come from wood interaction) and volatile acidity of Fino sherry, and has a rich glycerol content which results in a rich mouthfeel. This is typically a wine for main courses with meat.
Pair Oloroso with pork meat, pigeon and duck, lamb of beef, stews and casseroles, foie gras, and mature cheese. Favourite recipes with Oloroso is crispy duck pancaked, Moroccan lamb stew, and port cheeks braised in Oloroso.
Secret of Sherry. What makes Sherry wines so captivating to such diverse cultures and palates? The answer lies in their remarkable versatility. Sherry spans a spectrum of styles from dry and light to intense and sweet, allowing each type to find its ideal match with virtually any cuisine. From cold appetizers to spicy meats, from delicate seafood to rich desserts, from traditional European fare to contemporary global fusion—Sherry adapts.
An aged Oloroso stands up to rich meats and stews. A luscious Pedro Ximénez transforms desserts. In cocktails, Sherry adds depth and sophistication that simple spirits cannot match. This adaptability wins over adventurous and traditional palates alike, making Sherry a truly democratic wine.
