Perpignan no center of France but lovely food and wine

French food is great and Perpignan have some chairs you shouldn´t miss out

PERPIGNAN, FRANCE: “We serve the best food and wine”, a woman said as I arrived Deep South of France. If fact, in the Catalan territory between the sea and some mighty mountains. In the most Spanish city in France.

After three-days visit I understand the city of Perpignan belongs to the sunny side of Europe. And the old part is authentic and picturesque. But I don´t really agree with the famous Spanish artist Salvador Dali once described the train station as being “Centre of the Universe”. Dali wasn´t correct, not then and not now – the station isn´t even the centre of Perpignan.
But this “unknown” city has airport and perfect location – situated between the sea and the mountains. Offering beaches, ski slopes in the Pyrenees and 250 days of sunshine by the Mediterranean and is a centre of its own and the history of Spain and France.

Catalonia. People of Perpignan say they are living in French Catalonia. It´s just 20km away from the border of Catalonia and Spain and its identity is mixed of both countries – well, mostly French. During the Spanish protesting rally in 2017, 10,000 people in Perpignan demonstrated to separate Catalonia from Spain, and still the red- and yellow-striped Catalan flags are many places along with the words “Pays Catalan” – or Catalan land.
Historic we should remember that Perpignan was the capital of the Kingdom of Majorca in the 13^th and 14^th centuries. Later, this city defended Spain against the French and France against Spain.

Art and History

For free you can discover heritage through many historic sites, such as the Saint Jean Baptiste Cathedral in gothic style and astonishing dimensions. Dali is the artist most associated with Perpignan and Picasso donated works to a gallery as well as designing a stunning fountain. Sure, this is a city of art and history and where old walls have a story to tell.

Food and places to eat

They say all French food is good and besides the seafood and Crème Catalan. This city offers some typical dishes you shouldn´t miss out during your visit. Such as pork meat and vegetables cooked in a casserole, and pastry flavoured by seasonal fruits. Surprisingly, I found Barraco do Dende, the best Brazilian restaurant I ever visited throughout Europe. Freshly cocktails, excellent and quality food created on high level by young chef Adrian Gaarder and his kitchen staff from where all mains come at reasonable prices. Try the Brazilian specialities Feijoada and the delicacy Vatapa, a seafood stew. Both classics of Brazilian cuisine. Barraco´s selection of wine is also good value for money.

Cross the border to Spain and taste quality wine

Wine tasting. Visit to estate Terra Remota at the Spanish side of the border is a short journey. A guided tour ends with tasting of wines, and you will probably feel the elegance and richness of the organic wine. You will be served lovely local products; : Iberian ham, terrine of pâté, semi-cured goat’s cheese, Catalonian sausage Perol, salami, artisan bread, tomatoes, olive oil, fruit and coffe. Don´t forget to buy a bottle of Usted, proably the best bottle red delivered by Terra Remota. Usted has smoky notes of bacon, cherry and truffle and perfect for roasted or grilled meat and aged cheese.

City of Festivals

Perpignan celebrates all the Catalan festivals, such as Sant Jordi, and more or less year-round festivals. On Good Friday you can witness the Sanch Procession with black and red hooded capes and march around the city carrying huge effigies of Jesus and other across their shoulders. Even if you are not religious it is very moving spectacle.
Late August and early September is time for the International Photojournalism Festival with many exhibitions and thousands of visitors. An idea is to combine Perpignan with a visit to Marseille another destination on the French Riviera changed for the better.

Beach and beach-clubs only 10km away from Perpignan

Don´t speak French? If you like to be in touch with locals and don´t speak French, you might have a problem – in general a problem for all of us only speaking English. At the countryside and the mountains there are even less English spoken and you really put your French to the test. But Perpignan has a great beach and beach-clubs only 10km away and plenty of elegant shops in the city centre. All shopkeepers speak at least some English when business in sight.

France and Spain

Surprisingly, Perpignan is not on the list of people´s must-visit destination. Most  visitors arrive here from France and Spain, while the rest of Europe don´t really know much about blooming gardens, narrow streets and open squares. Hopefully they recognise that wines produced in this part of France and Spain are spectacularly good – especially served with foi gras and blue cheese. That is Perpignan at its very best.

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